You’ve probably heard it. Due to Covid-19, ski lifts have been closed for the entire season in France. A terrible news we’ve tried to turn into a beautiful adventure…

No ski lifts but heaps of snow in the French Alps

Five years riding in some of the best snow conditions in the world -Japow. Then three years making babies all over the world. And finally I am BACK on my snowboard. In France. To be completely honest, I wasn’t really excited about the idea, as I’m not used to the crowds (I fell in love with the quietness of the tiniest ski resorts in Honshu and Hokkaido) nor the steep and icy slopes (ooooh Japan’s powder snow!). Anyway. I’m losing my point. Skiing in France… in 2021. It’s a concept -considering there aren’t any ski lifts opened this year. An issue we’ve decided to turn into a new challenge…

A wild escape in the french alps

Riding in the most simple way. You use your legs to go down? Well, you’ll use your legs to climb up that mountain. Actually, my very first day ski touring was last year in Aveyron. But that’s the French Alps we’re talking about here. I mean. These mountains are quite a climb!

First day was a never-ending climb. Following with a whole night suffering in my bed, with my sore legs screaming while smelling like Tiger Balm. I realised a little bit of training would have been a good idea before climbing that mountain. Second day was painful, obviously. But the clear blue sky helped. The silence, when walking up in this landscape covered with snow, the fresh air, the distant peaks. This whole atmosphere would give you the strength to keep going however the pain. But that’s not it. After all that climb, awaiting for you, long slopes -empty slopes- with deep, deep powder. Sure it’s not as light and fluffy as Japan. But you get to eat cheese fondue after that, something you don’t get in Japan, right? You can't have everything.

The following days ski touring were absolutely fantastic. Same as our trek in Nepal 6 years ago. Your body simply get used to the effort, the air and the adrenaline. That’s when you get the magic. The thrill, the absolute joy, the strength…

I’m snowboarding, so I’ve tried both split-board and snow shoes for the occasion, depending on what the rental shops had in stock. I have to admit the split-board is awesome, as you don’t have to carry your board. It was so damn good to be back on the snow, to feel that pain and that adrenaline combined when riding heaps of powder. Ahhh it’s good to feel alive!

The small pleasures of a strange snow season in the French alps

There’s the silence, of course. The nature for yourself -that sensation to be privileged. The challenge. And also of course, the opportunity to explore the mountain differently in winter. With a long hike following a river per example. A couple of crazy sledge races. People you meet on the slopes.

As we’ve all learned to these past months, we simply took our time. Lived with the sunshine -ok, we don’t really have a choice in France with the current curfew. Reconnect -as they say.

I hate all this bullshit about being positive, seeing the bright side on everything, etc. But I have to admit. The current situation gave us the opportunity to discover Courchevel like we would never had the chance to otherwise. On top of that, 2021 has been exceptional in terms of snow conditions. And our timing was perfect, regarding the weather -as it was a couple of months ago in Aveyron. That’s one of the (many) advantages of the freelance lifestyle -being able to go right where you want to be when you want to be there.

Things to do in Courchevel -in 2020-2021 conditions

Hike down to La Rosiere Lake then up to La Cascade des Poux -then drink a hot cocoa by the lake at the take away restaurant by the Via Ferrata starting point.
Eat French crepes after ski at La Normandise. Because it’s good, because the staff is really nice, and because well… they’re open. [Rue des Rois, Courchevel 1550]
Have fun on the 3km long sledge run in the forest. BEAUTIFUL.
Take your little ones to the Club Piou Piou -the ski school from 3 years old. Noah had the most fun and yes, we were absolutely hysterical seeing him riding, like most parents. It’s ridiculously expensive (hello, you’re in Courchevel :)) but, you know, you don’t pay for the ski lifts, sooo…
Go for a snowshoe hike in the forest. There are plenty of itineraries to discover.
Rent a fat bike to ride in the snow a in a whole different way than usual.
And of course there are all the classic ski resort activities, such as flying over the mountains, riding a snowmobile, dog sledding, pony rides... But bare in mind that Courchevel is a luxury ski resort. So all of these require quite a budget.
Oh and will I dare talk about wine and cheese? I mean, this is so obvious…